Zebra on the Runway

On our trip from Nanyuki to the Masai Mara, our little airplane was grounded due to mechanical problems. This happens all the time everywhere (I should know - I'm married to a pilot). So our short 45 minute flight to the Mara turned into an air odyssey around Kenya.

We took off from Nanyuki to Samburu Intrepids and then Samburu proper. Two stops on two airstrips. Just fascinating to watch - flying into the Abadares, watching the rather forest like Nanyuki turn to desert by air, flying so low that you could see the ancient volcano craters, long extinct, turn to green velvety valleys. Giraffe and elephant turned to toys, marching across the plains.

From North (Samburu) we headed back to Nairobi where we had a few hour layover and were treated to lunch for our troubles at the Safarilink lunch counter (a delicious curry vegetable plate and mango juice, thank you very much..). I tried my best to turn into ugly American Tourist and raise hell that our entire day was shot....but I absolutely could not be angry with anyone in Kenya - the people are so gracious, so polite, so well mannered at the airport. They apologized first, sent cars for us, changed our return flight to the afternoon so we would have a day on the back end and offered me a coke light so how in the world could I ever be angry? Nope. Life is good, I am in Kenya, I am surprisingly happy for a long layover and several hundred miles of travel north to go south....

We finally make it to the plan to the Mara. This, of course, entails another four stops before our airstrip. We take off and head for the Lake Navaisha area. We fly over the Kibera slum in Nairobi - tin roofed shacks after tin roofed shacks..then the well manicured lawns and English gardens of Karen - the home of Karen Blixen of Out of Africa fame. Out of the Nairobi airspace we enter the Great Rift Valley - home of some of the most important discoveries of the origins of man. Indeed, this really looks like where the origins of mankind should be. In fact, it's strange but setting foot on African soil, you feel some primeval force telling you you are home. Call it your molecular cells remembering the air, the smell, the way the sun shines on this enormous land stretching out to forever, but you do feel like you have come home. Go to Africa and experience this yourself.

We pass more extinct craters, hills and lush green valley. More beautiful than can be imagined is this land. Coming upon Lake Navaisha - a beautiful lake, actually smaller than my imagination of it. We make a final approach and there it is - a freaking ZEBRA trots on the runway just as we are getting ready to touch down! Now I have the dual fortune and misfortune to be married to a pilot - because when he's calm I know everything is good - but then again if he even so much as flinches and lets down his "captain" guard for a nanosecond, I know we're screwed - and Jack flinched and pulled up on the imaginary yoke - just as the pilot flying this prop plane did the same thing - causing luggage to fly, people to be jostled and plane to go straight up to avoid messy and bad head on collision with said Zebra! Whoa - I'll say one thing about the US - we have no Zebra hazards on our runways.

We approach for another landing, this time Zebra free and drop off a British honeymoon couple, take off quickly (before the Zebras come back - they're watching at a safe but close distance just off the runway - perhaps there are some delicious plants growing off the runway but clearly they're waiting to reclaim their spot on the dirt runway.

Back in the air(Zebra free) , we head for the Mara, Porini Lion Camp and LIONS!!!!


Never have I seen anything that just makes me hang my jaw down stunned and floored by the sheer beauty as I have in Kenya. Can you fall instantly, hopelessly, in love with a land that you've only know in your dreams? Yes, but only if the reality meets your incredibly high expectations. The expectations of a child dreaming of wild animals and endless vistas. Kenya not only exceeded my expectations, but brought me right back to that little girl who dreamed of meeting Elsa the Lioness. I am now, and forever will be, in love with Kenya.