Trying to Describe Kenya

Breathtaking sunset, Nanyuki, Kenya

The other day I tried to describe Kenya to someone and I was kind of at a loss. How do you describe living a dream, a fantasy to someone? I've travelled to a lot of major cities and to a lot of places in this world, but I have never been in jaw-dropping awe of someplace every moment I was there before.

I always dreamed of Kenya. Born Free was on the television - perhaps the Wide World of Disney on Sunday? I had to have been no more than three or four. What I saw made me obsessed with lions and Kenya for decades after. I can't tell you why I never took a job travelling or just backpacked for a few years. I took the responsible job route and have lived to regret it.

But I had the opportunity to travel to Kenya last year on my honeymoon. For most women the wedding was the high point - to be honest I wanted to get that over with so we could be on a plane for our short (NOT) 2 day trip to Kenya.

Arriving in Kenya was easy. We waited on line for really less than an hour to get entry into the country. We got our Visas right at the airport. I remember having our passport stamped with Kenya on it - such excitement!

We had a driver waiting for us since we had just missed the flight to Amboselli and had to take a minivan the four hour trip. Directly out of the airport - right in Nairobi - we saw our first giraffe. A giraffe! In the wild! After about 2 hours driving we stopped to get a soda and some gas and then took our turn off the main road and into Masailand. We passed the local Maasai market where everything from cloth to fruit to goats were traded. And then the land opened up. It just literally opened up to the biggest sky I've ever seen. The air was dry and thin. The sky was bigger, bluer, more three dimensional than I've ever seen it. It was like when Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz lands in Oz and black and white turns to technicolor. The land and the air smelled too - a good smell of dryness, dirt and faint animal smells. What I remember noting is that everything was so dry. Kenya isn't a jungle - it's a savanna and the colors are green and gold and red and brown.

Young elephant in Amboselli

As we drove to our first camp, our driver picked up and dropped off various people - Maasai tribesmen getting a lift in their day. I remember looking at us in our khakhis and our beige clothing with our beige skin and looking at them - with their dark brown skin nd their red robes and tons of beadwork bracelets, belts, necklaces, earrings that would make any woman jealous. Every safari book admonished us to get a wardrobe of beige and khaki. This helps camouflage you to the animals. What a crock - our guides were as colorful as peacocks! And far more beautiful. I look at our pictures and compare their color to our blandness and I laugh!

On safari

We stayed at Porini Ecocamps - totally solar powered, they sit on conservancies. We went to a Maasai village and I remember the people - how we as Americans would think of them as "poor" or "in need of help". These people need nothing from us. They are rich in culture, in family, in beauty, in livestock and in land. They have natural remedies for everything from coughs to bug bites to animal scratches. They are far wiser than us. And they do go to school. In fact a lot of the people we met go to university in Nairobi and come back to live in their villages. Culture and tradition is important to them and they strive to not lose that. The only thing they would like from us is for us to come to Kenya so that they can earn an honest wage as a cook or a driver or a guide.

Beautiful Maasai Girl

But I haven't spoken about the animals. The only thing I can say is that to see these animals that we've all seen in pictures and in zoos here...in person...living, running, playing, having babies and even dying is a gift that I will cherish forever. Now more than ever I feel the need to protect nature and wildlife.

In our travels throughout the country, we saw elephants nurturing and protecting the smallest possibly newborn elephant I've ever seen. We saw a pride of lions on a hunt at night - their calls so deep that the ground shakes. We saw two male lions - brothers - one healthy and robust, the other bony and sickly. The healthy one will stay with the sick brother, making sure he is fed, making sure he is not attacked. He will stay with this brother until the brother is well or dies. He will stay even if it means his death.

small lion, big world

We saw Mt. Kenya's snow capped peak and the Abadare mountain range. We saw lions nursing their cubs. We saw warthog families runnin, teeny babies in tow with their tails straight in the air, like flags waving. We saw a cheetah mother teach her cubs to hunt and a zebra separated from her herd - limping, knowing she probably wouldn't make it through the night.

And we saw death. We saw an elephant that died stuck in a mudhole. We saw the carcass of a wildebeest that had died while still running - the body eternally in a run position. We saw an antelope carcass in a tree, it's horns hooked onto a branch. Placed there by a leopard so she could come back and finish her meal.

Eat or be eaten - first rule.

But we mostly saw life. Life in every form. The struggle to say alive, be it hunter or prey. The life in Kenya's people - full of pride and laughter.

They say Kenya and the Great Rift Valley is the origin of mankind, perhaps the origin of all living beings. Being there that's easy to believe. The land, the very air is alive and she sings a song. It's a song of freedom. It's a song of coming home. And that's the only way I can describe Africa - for all her strangeness and differentness to the United States - it's like coming home.

Zebra on the Runway

On our trip from Nanyuki to the Masai Mara, our little airplane was grounded due to mechanical problems. This happens all the time everywhere (I should know - I'm married to a pilot). So our short 45 minute flight to the Mara turned into an air odyssey around Kenya.

We took off from Nanyuki to Samburu Intrepids and then Samburu proper. Two stops on two airstrips. Just fascinating to watch - flying into the Abadares, watching the rather forest like Nanyuki turn to desert by air, flying so low that you could see the ancient volcano craters, long extinct, turn to green velvety valleys. Giraffe and elephant turned to toys, marching across the plains.

From North (Samburu) we headed back to Nairobi where we had a few hour layover and were treated to lunch for our troubles at the Safarilink lunch counter (a delicious curry vegetable plate and mango juice, thank you very much..). I tried my best to turn into ugly American Tourist and raise hell that our entire day was shot....but I absolutely could not be angry with anyone in Kenya - the people are so gracious, so polite, so well mannered at the airport. They apologized first, sent cars for us, changed our return flight to the afternoon so we would have a day on the back end and offered me a coke light so how in the world could I ever be angry? Nope. Life is good, I am in Kenya, I am surprisingly happy for a long layover and several hundred miles of travel north to go south....

We finally make it to the plan to the Mara. This, of course, entails another four stops before our airstrip. We take off and head for the Lake Navaisha area. We fly over the Kibera slum in Nairobi - tin roofed shacks after tin roofed shacks..then the well manicured lawns and English gardens of Karen - the home of Karen Blixen of Out of Africa fame. Out of the Nairobi airspace we enter the Great Rift Valley - home of some of the most important discoveries of the origins of man. Indeed, this really looks like where the origins of mankind should be. In fact, it's strange but setting foot on African soil, you feel some primeval force telling you you are home. Call it your molecular cells remembering the air, the smell, the way the sun shines on this enormous land stretching out to forever, but you do feel like you have come home. Go to Africa and experience this yourself.

We pass more extinct craters, hills and lush green valley. More beautiful than can be imagined is this land. Coming upon Lake Navaisha - a beautiful lake, actually smaller than my imagination of it. We make a final approach and there it is - a freaking ZEBRA trots on the runway just as we are getting ready to touch down! Now I have the dual fortune and misfortune to be married to a pilot - because when he's calm I know everything is good - but then again if he even so much as flinches and lets down his "captain" guard for a nanosecond, I know we're screwed - and Jack flinched and pulled up on the imaginary yoke - just as the pilot flying this prop plane did the same thing - causing luggage to fly, people to be jostled and plane to go straight up to avoid messy and bad head on collision with said Zebra! Whoa - I'll say one thing about the US - we have no Zebra hazards on our runways.

We approach for another landing, this time Zebra free and drop off a British honeymoon couple, take off quickly (before the Zebras come back - they're watching at a safe but close distance just off the runway - perhaps there are some delicious plants growing off the runway but clearly they're waiting to reclaim their spot on the dirt runway.

Back in the air(Zebra free) , we head for the Mara, Porini Lion Camp and LIONS!!!!


Never have I seen anything that just makes me hang my jaw down stunned and floored by the sheer beauty as I have in Kenya. Can you fall instantly, hopelessly, in love with a land that you've only know in your dreams? Yes, but only if the reality meets your incredibly high expectations. The expectations of a child dreaming of wild animals and endless vistas. Kenya not only exceeded my expectations, but brought me right back to that little girl who dreamed of meeting Elsa the Lioness. I am now, and forever will be, in love with Kenya.

Freezing on the Equator

One of the places we visited in Kenya was Porini Rhino Camp. Porini Rhino Camp is located in the ol Pejeta conservancy in Nanyuki, Kenya. Nanyuki is located on the Equator. It's also located in the foothills of the Abadare mountain range and is at an elevation if over 6,000 ft. When you think of Africa, especially Kenya, especially being on the equator - you think of, well - hot weather. At least I do. And living in Miami for the past four years, that's a good thing because I totally gave up any tollerance for cold weather whatsoever and now am a total heat dweller - if it gets below 65 degrees, I'm shutting down...

So we fly into the Nanyuki airstrip - which by Kenya standards is a huge airport - they even have a giftshop and restaurant (Barnies). We land and see the airstrip on the equator sign - pretty remarkable. This is also the place to see rhino, wild dogs and cheetah - promising so far. we get into the land rover and make our way to camp - it's about a 2 hour trip to camp but these rides also double as game rides so the time goes by slowly when you are searching for rhino and zebra.

This conservancy has a rich history - it was actually owned by Lord Delamere from Out of Africa fame. The conservancy also was the home at one point to Adnan Khasoggi. There is the Jane Goodal Chimpanzee Refuge on this land and at 90,000 acres, is the largest rhino conservation area in Kenya. The land is much more lush than in Amboselli, which was more desert-like and much drier. And the mountains - you can see Mt. Kenya in the distance - beautiful and snow capped. Simply breathtaking.

We arrive at the camp and meet the camp manager, Ben. I immediately love this guy - he is all smiles and stories. It's apparent that he loves where he is and what he does and also loves to hear as well as tell a good story. Ben will spend every breakfast lunch and dinner with us as our host, our dinner guest and our entertainment - and this is most welcome by us.

We have a walk with Maasai in the conservancy and a lovely lunch under a giant tree - most wonderful. We then go for our traditional sundowner (unlike thanksgiving and christmas dinners with dysfunctional families - this, my friends, is a tradition worth taking note of. As far as traditions go, this is one that everyone should take up). Sundowners are just as they sound - you have a cocktail as the sun goes down. Only here, you're taken by open land rover to a hilltop, a campfire is made for you and you have a "bush" gin and tonic (no ice in the bush) while watching a mother cheetah teach her almost grown cubs to hunt. Does it get any better? I don't think so (but I'm open to it).

I am so fascinated that I don't realize the sun going down means the night setting in. And our guides bringing out down jackets for themselves make me think I'm in for a long night! By the time we get back to camp, I'm hiding under layers of traditional Maasai blankets. Who turned down the hear? This is Africa! When the hell did it get to be about 40 degrees F? Huh? Before dinner we literally put on every layer of clothing we have -I totally look like a crazy person - wearing black socks with my hiking sandals, a baseball cap - yup - this is my sexy honeymoon look alright! Hot hot hot!

Another wonderful meal with Ben, a chat by the fire (warmth) and then it's off to our tent. I'm in the bathroom and Jack gets into bed and I hear a scream - "there's an animal in our bed"! Shit - what kind of little furry thing with large teeth got into the tent? Too big for a real predator - maybe a mongoose? Jack is out of the bed by now - (let's get this straight - Jack is a real guy. He flies planes for a living. He does things in the air that make me sick thinking of it. He would walk a tightrope from our building on the 16th floor to the one across the street without thinking twice. But....when it comes to critters, especially spiders - that's my department). I pull the covers and it's....a.......hot water bottle. covered in a fuzzy material to make it cuddlier, I guess. We hear the Maasai guard ask if we're alright - we say yes - I'm sure he gets this every night.

The bed is really cozy - just me, Jack and our Nanyuki pet....the hot water bottle.

Scrabble Tournament in Kenya

November, 2008

Jack and I were at our first camp of three in Kenya. I was in heaven - wildlife, amazing people, sleeping in a tent and being awakened by Maasai bringing coffee in bed. I mean this was the fantasy come to life. Our camp was Porini Amboselli Camp - situated near the famous Amboselli National Park - home to elephant and dust devils.

The camp Manager was named Tony. He was a little aloof and in this heat in the bush (very dusty) he wore a white sport jacket. Jack nicknamed him Mr. Rourke (from Fantasy Island). Tony didn't really mingle with us - he left us to our own accord - possibly because he knew we were on out honeymoon, possibly because he had better things to do than talking to American tourists - like run the camp. On our last day at this particular camp, I asked Jack if he wanted to play scrabble with me. I always bring my portable scrabble game with me everywhere I go. And I always force Jack to play. And he always loses and when he starts losing he gets a little whiny and he sabotages the game so he will lose faster. It's kind of a game within a game. We play. Jack gets bored. Loses big time. Starts with the abbreviations (FAA is not a word, honey).

Sooooo I mention to Jack that we have to play scrabble and Tony the aloof camp manager overhears and says "scramble? I love scramble". Jack volunteers him to play with me. OK before dinner TOny and I will play scramble (I love scramble. so much a more appropriate name for the game, don't you think?).....So we get changed for dinner and Tony and I play scramble. Tony is good. And takes it seriously. There is no scramble dictionary so we make some new rules. No Swahili. English only, please. And if someone challenges a word and the other player can't use it in a sentence and give a definition it goes off the board. This makes up for a slight language and culture (Kenyans are schooled in the British way and spelling is British rules) difference.

Anyway, we play. And Tony is good. But I am winning. By now, there are about a dozen Maasai warriors around the game. And the chef is yelling that the soup is burning. Doesn't matter - what matters is the game. I finally found someone who takes this seriously and he's in Kenya....go figure. Well, I'm thinking is it OK for the camp manager to get beaten by an American woman? Will the Maasai give him respect? Hell with that - I'm winning! So I win. TOny shakes my hand and asks for a rematch. I'd love to, I explain, but our flight out of Amboselli is at like 10 am and it's a 2 hour trip to the airstrip and so sad, too bad, maybe next time. So Tony says, I will wake you up at 4am so we can play. Sure, buddy. Go for it I say.


Four AM. Jack and I see a lantern in our sleep traveling toward the tent. "That's your wake up call", Jack says. Oh damn - this guy was serious. I throw on some shorts and my glasses, stumble out of the nice warm tent and into the night trailing a Maasai warrior with a lantern and a spear. There is a fire burning, strong hot coffee waiting and a table with.....the scrabble board all set up. Tony is there with his sport jacket - how the hell does he look dapper at 4am in the middle of Kenya?

We play and to make it more interesting we make a bet. If he wins he gets the scrabble (ahem, scramble) board. We play. Again more Maasai show up. Jack shows up to watch. This is an epic battle - wars were fought over less - woman vs. man. US vs. Kenya. City vs. Savannah. Some words are challenged (apoem is not a word, Tony. yes it is - I wrote apoem. Nooooo)...

As the sun starts to rise, the birds join the tournament. Thousands of birds, millions of birds. Singing and waking. Chattering and flying. As we play scrabble by the fire, the firey sun rises over the African plain. And as I play, I am aware that this incredible and surreal moment in my life will certainly never come again. I am in Africa. I am playing scrabble by the firelight as the sun rises over the land I have dreamed about all my life. I am losing this game that is being watched by Maasai - the most beautiful and majestic people I have ever seen.

I wind up losing. And shaking Tony's hand. And presenting him with the game. He is a formidable opponent and a new friend. We promise each other a rematch. I will make good. Someday.

July 2009 - Just received a message from Wilson, our guide at Amboselli Porini Camp in Kenya. He was playing scrabble. I smiled.